Tasting Wines with Paul Hobbs

For years I have written and talked to you all about the incredible wines made by Paul Hobbs. Last night I had the chance to meet him and taste wines with him at an event hosted by theMorrell wine shop in Manhattan. We tasted 8 wines that consisted of 4 grape varietals from 3 separate regions and 2 countries. So, that would be Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Russian River Valley, Mendoza - Argentina, and the Napa Valley. I took some thorough notes, but was also doing a lot of listening, more than usual, and of course plenty of tasting. When you have a man such as Paul in your presence, you are hearing the story of a successful person who was able to channel his passion at a young age and successfully carry it through as his life's passion and work - you can’t help but to listen. His stories varied from his youth and his initial inspiration (Dad's, get some Chateau D'Yquem), funny stories from the road and how his wine philosophy developed and resulted in the wines that he makes today.

So, here is the list of delicious wines and a few notes I was able to jot down.

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2007, Russian River Valley
- Great Chardonnay, wonderful nose of orange blossom that was creamy and a little toasty. The palate was lemon, minerality, and some judicious oak - just enough that it integrated well with the fruit and acidity.

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2007, Russian River Valley
- This was tasting great too, the 2007 vintage is supposed to be exceptional so keep an eye out for your favorite producers in 2007 for Cabernet as well as Pinot. Lots of cherries and strawberries in the nose. The palate was the same plus some earthy notes. Silky tannins and fresh acidity finished off this great Pinot Noir.

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Lindsay Estate 2006, Russian River Valley
- This wine was not tasting that well, or at least the bottle that I had it from was not. It was not flawed, but likely suffering from bottle shock or shyness because of its youth. I have had past vintages of this wine and it is exceptional.

Vina Cobos Malbec Bramare Lujan de Cuyo 2006, Mendoza
- Exceptional Malbec! Dark black center and red edges. Typical for PH Malbec, but you notice it so much more after the Pinot as you immediately see the color amp up a few notches. Rich aromas jump from the glass of black cherry, cola and spiciness from the oak, some secondary aromas came around after some time in the glass...an earthy richness. The palate was superb. Rich and full bodied black cherry, blackberry, some earthy minerality framing the rich fruit with the ripe tannins. the Bramare Lujan de Cuyo is on a very short list of Malbec I will be purchasing this year. I had a few bottles of the 2005 and those were exceptional as well.

Vina Cobos Cabernet Sauvignon Bramare Lujan de Cuyo 2006, Mendoza
- A great wine, but maybe a tad less complex than the Malbec. We talked about the differences of Cabernet from Napa and Argentina and Paul did say overall they are not getting consistent complexity that you get from a Cabernet made in the Napa Valley. I don’t think Paul meant the same exact flavors and aroma notes as Napa, but more to the fact that there are just not as many typical and specific aromas and flavors due to the fact it is from Mendoza. The “terroir” may not be shining through as specifically as Cabernet may in other regions like Napa. The good thing is that the wines are tasty and well made, but they may not be expressing their true terroir at this time. Its not surprising that this may take some time to come around as Malbec is the primary focus in Argentina. But, Cabernet is on the whole doing pretty well in the shadow of the Malbec grape.

Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley
- Immediately you smell the pencil shavings Paul mentioned as a signature note from Oakville (not sure which vineyard, but would assume Tokalon as this wine is made up of most of the single vineyard wines he makes - later research confirmed Tokalon is in this blend, along with Hyde and Stagecoach Vineyard grapes). Great typicity as you get black fruits, a tiny hint of green pepper, the pencil shavings (yes, that is a good thing and for a wine geek something you remember to help you pick out in blind tastings), and some spicy oak. The palate is black fruits as well, a bit of that green pepper in a good Cabernet Franc kind of way. Tannin and acidity are in line for the vintage. I always get a few of the "Napa" bottlings each year and will get a few of these as well later this year.


Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2005, Napa Valley - Exceptional. Immediately you notice the structure and complexity. Wines from the Stagecoach Vineyard are typically what I call bony wines. By that I mean they have big tannins, lots of depth and a solid structural core. Very dark in color, the nose was brooding black fruits like currants and blackberry, lots of hazelnut aromas too (thank you to the tasting note attached that revealed that hazelnut note I could not figure out). The palate was rich and complex showing primary blackberry and currants mixed in with the hazelnut from the oak treatment. Secondary flavors of spice and earthy herbal notes like sage were finished off by solid, ripe tannins and acidity.


Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2001, Napa Valley - I have had this wine quite a few times as I bought a case when this came out. If I were to use one word "supple" would be the word to describe this in comparison to the 2005 we just tasted. The 2001 wine seems to be doing well and has many more years ahead of itself. Still very dark, the center was black with dark ruby red edges. The nose was more subtle, but just as complex as the 2005. Similar fruit aromas, but they were a tad softer with additional chocolate and herbal aromas. The palate revealed supple black currants and mocha covered bing cherry. I recalled supple tannins and intact acidity on the finish.

So, overall, this was an incredible experience to meet who I think is a modern day hero for me. Yes, the wines were great but I think we all knew they would be. Dan Marino and Don Mattingly were my childhood heroes, Paul is my adult hero, and not just a wine hero. His success and passion are things that I think we all search for in life and can look to as an inspiration.

epiph·a·ny
Pronunciation: \i-‘pi-fə-nē\
3 a (1): a usually sudden manifestation or perception of the essential nature or meaning of something (2): an intuitive grasp of reality through something (as an event) usually simple and striking (3): an illuminating discovery, realization, or disclosure b: a revealing scene or moment

Webster’s dictionary defines the word Epiphany in 3 ways. I deem the third definition to be what happened twice to me in my life in regards to why I am so passionate about wine. My first wine epiphany was my first taste of a Stag's Leap 1998 Fay Cabernet Sauvignon. It struck me as something so new and unbelievable that there were so many nuances in the aroma and flavor of a wine. Up until about a year before that event I had little real experience tasting wines beyond the garden variety KJ's (Kendall Jackson) and Mondavi's. I had once had an exceptional white burgundy but did not know it till years later (Puligny Montrachet, unknown producer). I remember it being good, but it was just wine to me at that time that did not taste bad...it tasted like wine. That was my benchmark, something that did not taste bad!

So as the story goes, I moved to San Francisco for a 2 year stint with a past employer. I decided that Napa was so close I'd be crazy to not go somewhat frequently and acquaint myself with the "good life" that Napa represented and at the same time get to know my wines better. I tried many of the mainline wineries, after all I was kind of new at this and what did I know. Mondavi, Cakebread, Sterling, to name a few had the same single characteristic that the white burgundy had - they tasted like wine. But I felt like I was missing something. I kept asking myself "what is all the hype about" and "why do people read tasting notes and take them so fastidiously"? I just didn't get it. So, after telling my father about my wine adventures, he told me about an article from the New York Times and told me about this winery called Stag's leap Wine Cellars. He said it was supposed to be a good winery with this story about beating the French in a wine tasting, blah, blah, blah. I did not hear much after that and in fact I barely remember the conversation to this day beyond the words Stag's Leap and good. So, one day with some friends we decided to drop by Stag's Leap Wine Cellars to try out some wines. We had the Napa wines first. Again, the wines were good, but nothing else. Then, we saw the "Estate" tasting section where they were pouring a flight of the Estate wines which were quite pricey. I think a tasting of these 4 wines was $20 at the time (spring 2001). Needless to say I had my doubts and was convinced it was a marketing scheme and "Reserve" or "Estate" was just something that justified and deemed the wine worthy of a higher price. What happened was like a giant light bulb going off in my head and it started with their Arcadia Chardonnay! Aromas of apples and pears jumped from the glass. It tasted of granny smith apples and lemons, and had this nice rich taste and finish to it. To this day the Arcadia Chardonnay was and is a favorite Chardonnay of mine. Next up was the first pricey red, a wine called "Fay". I needed a real sensory experience, the Arcadia was a great start! The Fay delivered and thensome! Aromas of rich red fruits and sage, yes I still remember to this day sage stuck out in that wine. The tannins were silky and smooth, supposedly very typical and what the Stag's Leap region is know for because of the high amount of volcanic geological materials in the soils. What a day! I will always remember that day as an awakening for me. This was just in time to sample lots of the 1999 wines which I am just starting to drink now!

My second wine epiphany just so happened to be back here on the east coast. I was in-between apartments after my move back from San Francisco at the time and living with my parents for a few months. It's not as big and exciting as the SLWC event, but much more powerful in a subtle way. I also got to drink the whole bottle!

Most of my friends were out of town, my parents were out of town, and I was not headed to a ski house I had joined that year so I had nothing to do on a Saturday night all by myself. So, since I enjoy cooking, I decided I would make myself a nice dinner at home and open a nice bottle of wine to have with it. I was in the mood for a steak, maybe a rib eye or filet mignon. After the gym I headed to the grocery store to pick up my bounty. When I got home I pulled a Paul Hobbs 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon from the small, but growing collection I was accumulating. A friend of mine from back on the west coast had told me to check out the Hobbs wines so I figured that night would be a good night to check it out. I decided to open it immediately to judge for myself if it needed to be decanted or was ready to go. I had time to decant because as I mentioned I was at the gym previously and did require a shower. I also had the prep and cooking time too if necessary to allow the wine a head start. Well, suffice to say a head start was not exactly necessary.

Immediately I knew I had something special in that bottle. The wine's perfume jumped from the bottle and the glass. The sheer dark color of the wine seemed to be glowing it was so vibrant! The first taste was unforgettable! Cherries, mocha, black currants...the amazing complexity that allowed for so many layers of flavors and aromas was moving. I hurried up to shower and get back to this wine. I still recall being able to taste the wine's finish on my palate in the shower a few minutes later. I was blown away! I still have the remnants of that bottle of wine back home in my parents' garage, along with a few other fallen soldiers (empty bottles) I like to keep after consuming.

Paul, beyond your wines being so exceptional, I thank you for being such a special part of my wine experiences. You are an inspiration to all. You followed your dreams and never sacrificed your beliefs by adhering to your philosophy and principles on making wine and living life.

Cheers!
Tom

Italian Chianti Values
- $20 and under
- 2009 LABEL PANEL I

The other night I had a Chianti Classico (CC for short) made by Brancaia. Brancaia is known more for there IGT wines, i.e. "Super Tuscans" which blend indigenous grape varietals with noble Bordeaux grapes like Merlot and Cabernet. The "Il Blu" is their most popular and well regarded wine and runs about $50 or so. The Chianti is excellent and can cost more than your typical Chianti Classico, but if you see it and its priced well, definitely pick some up!

Chianti is not a wine that will change your life in most cases. There are excellent producers that make mind blowing Chianti, but they rarely break the $50 price point. And that says a lot! The best Chianti Classico Riservas don’t typically break $50. In many more wine regions the best examples of any wine command $100 at least and in many places like Burgundy and Bordeaux they are many 100’s of dollars! Does Chianti not get that respect? No, it’s just not that kind of wine. Most are meant to have with a simple pasta and tomato sauce dishes, pizza, lasagna, etc. The better ones are great wines that can age 15 years and provide great drinking pleasure. Chianti Classico is for the most part an uncomplicated wine!

The 2004 vintage in Italy was very good and even better is the 2006 which is the current release in stores for the Chianti Classico wines. For Riserva bottlings you may need to wait another 6 months to a year as they are aged in barrel longer than regular CC and thus held back about an extra year on average.

Tasting Notes, 2004 Brancaia "Chianti Classico"

Color: Dark red and lighter red rim

Nose: Typical terroir, you can smell the earth and acidity, typical of a Chianti. Red berry and cherry fruit aromas mix in some subtle flowers

Palate: Sour cherry and earthy minerality dominate the palate with tight tannins and good grip from the acidity.

I highly recommend the Brancaia be consumed with food. Come to think of it, most Italian wines are high in acidity and are almost always better with food (again the uncomplicated factor). To be fair and not generalize Italian wine Brunello and Barolo immediately come to mind as wines that are from Italy that do not fall into this food necessary category.

So, on to the Chianti Classico I recommendations!

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico $16-18 - Our favorite go to Chianti, excellent PQ* ratio for any wine. A solid wine start to finish! I have recommended this wine multiple times to many friends and it has yet to disappoint! *PQ = Price to Quality ratio

Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico $12-15 - Best priced CC out there made in a classic style

Casa Emma Chianti Classico $15 - Solid, very typical and well done!

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico $15 - Best priced CC out there made in a modern style, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot

Brancaia Chianti Classico $15-22 - Not widely available or known so prices are all over the map! Buy it at under $20 if you can!

Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico $16-19 – We drank lots of this in Belize on vacation. Very reliable and pleasing, Antinori is a reputable and VERY large producer therefore very widely available.



Castello Di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi $10 - Bargain Chianti anyone?

Selvapiana Chianti Rufina $15 - If not from the Rufina region of Chianti this would easily be $25

Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Riserva $19-22 – Found under $20 this would be a great wine to have with the regular CC from Macie (see above) to compare and contrast…is it really better because it’s a Riserva?

I have not had these three in a while, but they have certainly gained more fans in the last few years of the "critic kind" and have gone up closer to $20 instead of $15, but they are classic examples for CC. If none of the above wines are available these are great alternatives when available for under $20!

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico $16-19
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva $18-20
Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva $18-22

Cheers,
Tom

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2009 Chiant Value Wine Label Panel

"Holiday Wines"

This Christmas season was a remarkable time with friends and family and is still going as we will not formally celebrate with my parents until next Sunday to weather and other timing issues. However, so far it been a spectacular time for great wine! The wines we had in 2008 for Christmas were surprising, impressive, and superb! They ranged in age from 6 years to 17 years old.

2001 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars "Artemis" Cabernet Sauvignon

This was one of the last few bottles of this wine that I have left and right now it is singing! I may finish them off by the end of this year based on how good this wine was. I have to say that it was probably hitting its peak! My notes:

Another classic styled Napa Cabernet - I thoroughly enjoyed this as an alternative to the big ripe jammy Cabernet style that has been in vogue that last few years.

Color: Dark red center with ruby red edges

Nose: Classic cassis, bing cherry and sage aromas

Palate: More of the cassis and cherry, herbal sage and earthy tannins! Silky smooth finish!

1992 Joseph Phelps "Insignia"

Drawn from John's collection in the cellar, this wine was in fine shape. Dark, fragrant, and supple palate flavors from 16 years of age, this was a delicious wine.

Color: Dark center, purple-red edges

Nose: Fragrances of black berry and dark chocolate, a slight trace of old cedar and fall leaves. The aromas jump form the glass.

Palate: Elegant blackberry and black currants, dark fruits, supple tannins and acidity finish it off. This wine is still concentrated, for being 16 years old. In its early youth I feel this wine would have been very similar to the 2002 Pride Mountain Cabernet (tasting notes further below).

1992 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon

The surprise of the weekend! On the second night of our stay John had said he opened a bottle of this a few months back and it was pretty good. If you are not familiar with Woodbridge, it’s a value priced line of wines made by the old Mondavi Corporation that was consumed by Constellation Brands. Depending on when this was bottled (my guess is 14-15 years ago) anyone who would have thought this wine would perform so well this many years later would be quite surprised. It had great Cabernet character of cherry, some bell pepper, and earthy aged notes. The tannins were silky smooth and the wine delivered great pleasure to all who had some.

1991 Joseph Phelps "Mistral" Rhone blend

This was also a great surprise and beat expectations handily. One would think a Rhone varietal wine from California before it was popular to make and thus not practiced very often would not last the test of time. This one did just that with rich and complete flavors.

Color: Red center and brick at the edges

Nose: Red fruits, red liquorice, some supple white pepper

Palate: Rich and surprising, full red fruit flavors of raspberries and crushed cherry, some leather and smoke. The tannins are almost gone, but the remaining acids freshen it all up at the end.

2002 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Big and rich, this was the most powerful wine all weekend. Rich and bombastic, this wine was still booming at 6 years old.

Color: Opaque, black center with red edges

Nose: Rich crushed blackberry and currant, spice and oak are hanging out noticeably in the background.

Palate: Full throttle black cherry, blackberry and pepper. Rich oak and chocolate flavors finish off with big mountain fruit tannins and enough acidity to keep you coming back a lot!

2006 Mollydooker "Goosebumps" Sparkling Shiraz

I will finish the tasting notes with the first of my wines we had on Christmas Eve. The fizz was quite nice as it was very subtle, just enough so you notice it.

Color: Black center, dark red edges

Nose: Oak, big ripe red fruits, some spicy cedar notes

Palate: Big black raspberry, blueberries and spicy cracked pepper. Very ripe!

Who says that a Napa Valley wine made with the right care and attention can not age!?!

Cheers!

-Tom and Tucker

We took home our new family addition last weekend and Tucker has been a great bundle of joy to our home. He is 13 weeks old and now 14 pounds already! My blogging has been delayed from the Holiday festivities and caring for a baby boy Wheaton Terrier. Though today I plan to get more blogs in as I have been keeping good tasting notes!

1997 St. Supery Meritage Napa Valley Red

Drinking well, but near the end of its optimal drinking window.

Color: Dark red center, lightening edges, but still pretty dark for 11 years of age.

Nose: Dark red fruits - cherry and currants, sage and some dusty oak.

Palate: Cherry and currants, sage and savory herb flavors, some cedar. Well balanced, the tannins are mellowed but silky smooth, nice acidity. Well made wine.

I purchased this from the winery as a library selection a few years back. At the time it was a wine I had sought out but now for the life of me can’t remember why. Either way it was a nice and enjoyable wine that shows why 1997 was such a great year as this wine is nicely balanced from start to finish with ample fruit and silky tannins.

Cheers,
Tom

Syrah Streak!

Tonight we opened an old bottle of Syrah acquired from an auction back in 2003. Well, old from a New World perspective: 1999. This is probably the 4th wine in the last week or two that was Syrah or a blend that had Syrah in it. By the way, I mostly buy wines from auction to find rare under-priced wines of value, not expensive rare wines.

1999 The Ojai Vineyard Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard

USA, California, Central Coast
Santa Barbara County

Santa Maria Valley

In great shape for a New World Syrah from 1999! Decant for a minimum of 1.5 hours!

Color: Dark purple, red edges

Nose: Grapey at times, with white pepper and tar battling out. Dark chocolate and savory dark olives emerge defiantly after 2 hours!

Palate: Pepper, black fruits, some leather, tannins are still prevalent. After 2 hours cocoa mixes in with the aforementioned flavors.

Drink this now through 2011.

Cheers!

Great Wines and Home Made Dinners

Recent wines, December post wine tasting.

Since the wine party I have been on a streak of making some great dinners at home and pairing them with justifiably good wines to pair with them. Bordelaise sauce and New York Strip Steaks, whole roasted chicken, whole roasted snapper (see picture inset), and veal Paillards with Chasseur Sauce. I feel cooking to me is my creativity outlet - I am creating something. I feel it’s similar to when I was a child and would draw, sketch and paint. Something I abandoned once sports like football and lacrosse took hold. The chasseur and bordelaise sauce came from a recent article in savor magazine. I swear they have the best covers of any food magazine, though inside the details can be hit or miss. So flip through your next Savor enough to see if anything useful is in it to justify a buy as the covers will catch your eye.

So, on to the wines:

2004 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu) $65 (lists at $90, WL had a great price!)

Grape: 100% Viognier from Condrieu

Color: Straw gold in color

Nose: Toasty oak, ripe peaches, white flowers

Palate: Smoky toasty oak frames ripe peach and apricots, some Meyer lemon peel, white flowers and nice minerality and acidity.

The "La La" Doriane was one of those bottles we bought and saved for a special day or dinner. Guigal makes some of the most revered wines in the northern Rhone, particularly Condrieu and Cote Rotie. Tonight was our first roasted fish made at home and we just finished trimming the Christmas tree. Special enough for us considering our lack of formal dining out of late! As per usual, the special saved wine did not live up to expectations. At first the wine was a little out of it. The mid-palate to finish was a bit delayed but after an hour that evened out nicely. The Condrieu evened out after about an hour and 30 minutes. I saw lots of talk of rich and powerful in other notes, but I had none of that. It was rich, but not overly so, just what is usual of Viognier, plus some good acidity and a nice shade of minerality. Over all we were a bit under whelmed considering it was a "La La" from Guigal, but it was still pretty good. I would buy La Doriane again in a great vintage at this price, but otherwise I will experiment with VdP bottlings and when priced right Guigal (regular Condrieu), Villard and Delas also from Condrieu.

2006 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast) $42

Grape: Pinot Noir

Color: Deep Ruby Red, perfect color

Nose: Wild ripe strawberry, cherry, blackberry and cocoa

Palate: Same as nose, additional notes of earthy mushroom, and a touch savory, elegant, long velvety finish.

Lacking in much tannin and acidity that hint at a short drinking window, this is drinking nicely now and should for another 2-3 years. It’s a ready to drink, well made, smooth and polished Pinot Noir. This is a mail order list wine from my collection. Kosta Browne makes some of the hardest to get (at a good price) Pinot Noir. We had this with the roasted chicken that Lisa made – the combination rocked! We really enjoy Pinot and roasted chicken and turkey!

2004 Caldwell Rocket Science (USA, California, Napa Valley, Coombsville) $40

Lots of oak, big ripe flavors of black fruits: plum and blackberry, chewy tannins. It is a fun wine that we enjoyed with my parents after we brought the tree back, hoisted it high and strung it up with lights. Caldwell is a leader in the Coombsville section of the Napa Valley, east of the town of Napa.

Grapes: 33% Cabernet, 33% Syrah, 25% Merlot, 9% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot

Color: Dark and brooding, opaque and almost black, dark red edges

Nose: Black fruits and oak, some heat (a term that means you can tell of the traces of alcohol)

Palate: Lots of big, toasty oak and big ripe flavors of spicy black plum and blackberry, chewy tannins.

2005 Carlisle Syrah Bennett Valley (USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley) $35

I was expecting a Shiraz styled Syrah, but was pleasantly surprised at the character of this wine's lack of Cali-typicity. The nose was strikingly Northern Rhone, where Syrah reaches its apex and is considered its homeland, though slightly less peppery and no bacon fat goodness.

Color: Dark red, garnet edges

Nose: Meaty, some White Pepper, Underbrush, Blackberry

Palate: Blackberry and black cherry, licorice, some-what subtle mocha-choco-oak.

This was a well made wine, the flavors were integrated well and the wine was nicely balanced. I will buy more of this next year from Carlisle!


2001 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley (USA, California, Napa Valley) Tasted at the wine party.

Color: Dark center, dark red edges.

Nose: Aromas of blackcurrant, spice, cedar, cherry.

Palate: Black spicy currants, cherry and cassis mesh well with the oak and tannins.

Maybe keep it horizontal - this bottle was a little shy. I had decanted for 2+ hours and it was still in slumber mode. It was still revealing that amazing flavor and complexity, just at a lesser intensity. It seemed youthful, tight and complex, many years ahead of this wine! It by no means was over the hill on in decline!

2002 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley (USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley) MAGNUM format, Tasted at the wine party.

Color: Dark ruby red, excellent color

Nose: Black Cherry, some spice, judicious oak

Palate: Cherry, some cocoa, cola Very tasty, not overcomplicated. Fine grained tannins, polished and smooth, nice acidity freshens it all up for more!

This was a very sophisticated and clean wine. I wish I had more! Most of this wine is now twice the price and bottled into Paul’s estate Lindsay Vineyard. We had the 2003 over the summer and it did not come close to as good as this wine!

Cheers! Here's to you drinking well over the next few weeks during the holidays!

-Tom

2008 Thanksgiving wines...and a few more too!

On Thanksgiving (and Christmas) I like to start with Champagne. It's a festive wine and celebratory after all! After that, its all about what we feel like drinking the rest of the day and of course the food. TG is a tough holiday meal to pair wine with as a cornucopia of flavors and textures fight for your palate's attention in abundance unlike any other meal of the year. Champagne and Riesling are the most versatile wines out there, however I favor Champagne over Riesling in most cases expect for Asian cuisine. Champagne is also more fun and popular with wine drinkers than the sommelier adored Riesling (Somms. love Reisling).

This day I was definitely on for champagne, no doubt I was gifted an excellent bottle of Veuve Clicquot Yellow label the week before at the Wine Party. It was perfect for the occasion. Then I wanted white to have with the Italian antipasti, but had none other on hand except a Shafer Chardonnay that was not such a great pairing. I needed more acidity and a Friuli or Tuscan white would have been perfect, I was unprepared! The Chardonnay was nice and we had some left to have with the birds, it was a great pairing.

Now for the red, Pinot Noir without a doubt was what I was feeling! Lisa and I decided to pop the cork on a Sea Smoke Southing. I am now so happy I have more of this wine and will be ordering the allocation of the 2007s coming in spring 2009. The 2007 vintage of wines in California is supposed to be the best in 10 years since the much heralded 2007 vintage.

I was thinking about also opening a Kosta Browne Russian River Pinot Noir but decided we had enough wine for the time being as we had the Prosecco that my family likes to have with the Turkey. I and a few others passed on the Prosecco and enjoyed the Sea Smoke Pinot Noir and Veuve Champagne with dinner. I also wanted to save room for desert and to drink one more wine with desert. I had been jonesing for over a week for the 1994 Chappellet Moelleux that I had been sitting on for a few years, man was it worth the wait! I was hoping it was not past its prime, but showed to be in great shape with quite a few years left!

So, onto the wines:

NV Veuve Clicquot, Brut Champagne, Reims, France

Always a crowd pleaser. Biscuity, lemon and apple aromas. Tasty yeasty notes of bread and biscuit, apple and citrus. Great bubbles and acidity clean up the nicely dry finish.

2005 Shafer, Chardonnay "Red Shoulder Ranch", Carneros, Napa Valley

Color: Golden straw yellow

Nose: Toasty hazelnut, ripe apple and Meyer lemon aromas.

Palate: Apple and citrus flavors, nutty and strong acidic finish that mellow as the wine was open longer. If drinking, I would decant for 30 minutes or so to mellow out the finish.

2005 Sea Smoke, Pinot Noir "Southing", Santa Barbara Hills AVA, CA

Color: A rich velvety dark red hue, ruby edges

Nose: Lush Blackberry and Blueberry, dusty oak

Palate: Blackberry and Blueberry, dusty oak and some nice minerality. Excellent tannic structure, firm but not overdone.

This is a great example of a wine I love and hope to buy every year!

1994 Chappellet, Chenin Blanc Moelleux (Desert Wine)

Color: Rich and glowing dark gold

Nose: Creamy peach and spicy apricots, some older subtle oak aromas tell of age. Some orange blossom emerges later.

Palate: Rich flavors and texture, yet light on its feet - not cloying or overbearing. I can drink this all night! Creamy peach, apricot, orange blossoms and honeysuckle. Great acidity still remains in this wine and refreshes the palate!

2006 Cote de Brouilly, Chateau Thivin, Beaujolais, France

Color: Dusty maroon and red

Nose: Earthy with herbal tea and some cherry

Palate: More of the same, red fruits, herbal tea and earth, some minerality. Fine-grained tannins finish it off.

A Grand Cru Beaujolais is a great wine at a great price. They tend to be less complex and more accessible than a red Burgundy, but in great years the Cru Beaujolais are excellent wines.

1998 Ducru-Beaucaillou - La Croix de Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Bordeaux

Color: Dark red in the decanter. In the glass ruby center with light red/brick edges.

Nose: Red currants, meat and cedar.

Palate: Red currants and cherry, spicy cedar, older herbs like bay leaf, loads of tannin on the finish.

A great second wine from a superb 2nd Growth Producer Ducru-Beaucaillou, this wine is getting more expensive of late so get some before the price sky rockets and gets close to $50. You can get this for about $30 or so retail.

Cheers and enjoy the days leading up the big holidays coming up in December!

-Tom

Williams Selyem Pickup Weekend, Millbrook Winery, Hudson Valley

Nestled in the heart of the Hudson Valley, this Sunday Lisa and I ventured about 2 hours north to visit Millbrook Winery in upstate Millbrook, New York. Within the lofted tasting room of Millbrook Winery we tasted through a few Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay and a red Zinfandel – from California! The owners of WS are from NY and also owned Millbrook before they purchased WS in 1998. We made the trip to enjoy a leisurely Sunday drive upstate to pick up my recent order of Williams Selyem wine futures. The Dyson family are gracious enough to also provide a few goodies when you arrive, we tasted a few of the latest vintage wines of William Selyem and Millbrook Winery, as well as an Italian winery in Tuscany I was unaware they also owned – Villa Pillo. The drive was beautiful through the windy roads and rolling hills, colored red, gold and amber from the leaves changing colors and the sun shining down on them. Now, onto the wine:

2006 Drake Chardonnay (tasted last)
Like a cross between a classic made California Chardonnay and a well made white burgundy, this wine was showing well and made me think twice about passing on their Chardonnay offerings.
Color: Golden with green flecks
Nose: Mineral, apple and citrus aromas rise from the glass.
Palate: Lightly toasted oak frames apple, candied lemon.
Finish: Mineral and crisp acidity freshen the palate.

2006 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir
Color: Light ruby red
Nose: Candied cherry, cola and spicy aromas
Palate: Classic RR Pinot, not heavy, ethereal and full of finesse. Cherry, earth, and some dusty

mocha.
Finish: Clean, refreshing, not long, but probably to young. I believe this is also a newly mature

vineyard; the next few vintages should attain more length and complexity.

2006 Weir Vineyard
Color: Ruby red
Nose: Strawberry, cinnamon and some mushroom notes.
Palate: More strawberry, some cola and spicy cedar/cinnamon secondary flavors.
Finish: Smooth, supple fruit and tannins carry a nice finish.

2007 Litton Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
I can’t WAIT for the 2007 wines! I have been reading a lot lately that 2007 is going to be a banner year – what better way to celebrate the 10 year anniversary of the 1997 vintage with what some are saying the best vintage since then. And that is for many grapes, Pinot, Cabernet and Syrah early reports are off the charts.

This was an awesome wine, young and pretty well together for such a new wine, it was showing depth and complexity the other wines just did not have – likely the premium site and also the stellar 2007 vintage. This is also typically the most full bodied Pinot that WS makes according to the pourer.

Color: Dark red and ruby, much darker than the last two
Nose: Black cherry, blackberry, full and inviting
Palate: Lush and expansive, ripe black cherry and black berry stand out the most, but the wine

was still light on its feet and not cloying.
Finish: Well balanced for such a young wine, the finish sailed on for a long time. The aromas,

palate and finish worked so well this is the best WS Pinot I have had to date.

I hope I will be allocated this next year!

2006 Forcini Vineyard Zinfandel
This was the wine I was coming to pick up – WS in known for making elegant red Zinfandel, not typical as many Zins can be jammy fruit bombs. I ordered my full allocation this year – 2 bottles!

Color: Dark red and ruby
Nose: Ripe blackberry and dusty mocha/chocolate notes, some oak.
Palate: Tasty blackberry and chocolate, some oak and tannin frame the wines finish.
Finish: A great example of elegant Zinfandel, restrained, but ripe black berries and supple

tannin leave the taster coming back for more.

We only had time for one winery and lunch so we will try to come back earlier in the day or stay later for the spring to pick up of the wines we may order.

Cheers from the wine trail!

Merlot? Blackbird Merlot!

Yes, I said Merlot! And it’s not just any Merlot, the 2006 Blackbird "Arise" from Napa Valley. This 100% Merlot comes from the Pomerol inspired Blackbird Vineyards in the Oak Knoll appellation in the Napa Valley. I received my 2006 wines from BB 3 weeks ago and have been very patient not to dig in too soon. If you drink a wine too soon after it has arrived from shipment, you may have a wine not ready to drink as it is in a form of shock from all of the movement involved in shipping a package. In short, let’s just say it pays to give it 2-4 weeks to let the wine settle down. The Arise is the intro-level wine, priced at $50 retail, and that is if you can find it in a store. You have to go to the winery to buy. This may be one of the best Merlots from the US I have ever had, better than the Paul Hobbs 2003 Michael Black Merlot I had the other day which can go for $25-50 more! OK, on to the notes:

Color: Dark red, ruby edges, a deep red that draws you in...best color of a wine I have seen in a while.

Nose: Crème d'cassis, some black cherry, sweet oak and vanil

Palate: Plum, black cherry, spicy oak, a tinge of savory herb with slightly rustic, yet youthful tannins.

Finish: Fresh! Long, classy finish that sails on and on.

Cheers!

*** (out of 4)

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2005

In the Chianti Classico region the wines of Fattoria di Felsina make some of my favorite wines from Chianti. Located just outside Siena, Felsina and their vineyards lie near Castelnuovo Berardenga.


When it is made well, Chianti Classico is quite a versatile wine. Never the brashest of wines, rarely high in alcohol or sweet, they perfectly balance fruit, acidity and tannin. In fact when I think of Chianti I think of mouthwatering acidity that goes so well with Mediterranean cuisine, especially that of Tuscany. A touch of earthiness, dried cherries, and in some cases a meatiness, are classic Chianti flavors and aroma traits.

The rules of what you can make a Chianti Classico from have changed in recent years, but Felsina sticks to making their Chianti Classico wines of 100% Sangiovese, unless otherwise noted as being a Super Tuscan, or IGT. Traditional blends usually maintain a high percentage of indigenous grapes. Sangiovese anchors almost all Classico wines as the majority grape.

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2005

Color: Dark ruby red, lighter out to the edges.

Nose: Earthy, tart red fruits, tobacco

Palate: Medium bodied, tart cherry and other zesty red fruits, earthy, snappy acidity that refreshes with each sip.

Finish: Firm from the tannins, yet refreshing because of the solid backbone of acidity. A classic Italian Sangiovese!

***1/2

148th Hospice De Beaune Tasting at Christie' New York

Started 148 years ago by the Hospice De Beaune to raise money for the hospital, this annual auction event sells at auction red and white Burgundy wines by barrel to the highest bidder. This was just a promotional tasting event in New York to raise awareness of the auction and to allow the trade to get a taste of what lies in Burgundy up for auction. Buyers from Japan, the US, the UK and many more vie to take home the best and most prized barrels of wine from vineyards owned by the Hospice De Beaune. The Hospice, formerly a 15th century hotel called the Hotel-Dieu, turned into a hospital to serve the poor of the region and never looked back. Instead of monetary donations, the Hospice was quite often given a vineyard or plot of vineyard as a donation as the French in this region believed that if they gave a vineyard they would be guaranteed entry to heaven. What a brilliant idea because the gift gave every year by creating wine which could then be sold each year for use by the hospital.

Whites (Chardonnay)

2005 Pouilly Fuisse, Francoise Poisard2006 Pouilly Fuisse, Francoise Poisard
2004 Meursault-Charmes, 1er Cru "Cuvee de Bahezre de Lanlay"
2006 Meursault-Charmes, 1er Cru "Cuvee de Bahezre de Lanlay"
2004 Meursault-Genevrieres, 1er Cru "Cuvee Philippe Le Bon"
2006 Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru "Cuvee Francois de Salins"
2005 Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru "Cuvee Dame de Flandres"

Reds (Pinot Noir)

2005 Beaune, 1er Cru "Cuvee Dames Hospitalieres"
2005 Beaune, 1er Cru "Cuvee Guigogne de Salins"
2005 Pommard, 1er Cru "Cuvee Dames de la Charite"
2005 Volnay Santenots, 1er Cru "Cuvee Jehan de Massol
2003 Savigny-les-Beaune, 1er Cru "Cuvee Arthur Giraud"
2005 Beaune, 1er Cru "Cuvee Nicolas Rolin"
2002 Corton, Grand Cru "Cuvee Charlotte Dumay"
2003 Corton, Grand Cru "Cuvee Charlotte Dumay"
2005 Corton, Grand Cru "Cuvee Charlotte Dumay"
2005 Clos De la Roche, Grand Cru "Cuvee George Kritter"
1999 Mazis Chambertin, Grand Cru "Cuvee Madelaine Collignon"

What a line-up! I will make this an annual event that I attend. This was for me the best Burgundy only tasting I have ever been to. Now, by Burgundy standards and representation of the region this is a drop in the bucket! Most of the wines were from the Beaune, known best for its whites and also for solid reds, and two wines were from the Cote de Nuits, known for the most complex and sought after reds. The vineyards of Burgundy are more or less named for the villages in which the vineyards lie. The designation Grand Cru is the best parcel(s) of the vineyard(s), Premier Cru, or 1er Cru, being the second best individual sections of a vineyard(s) and then followed by "Village" and then regional, such as "Burgundy" or "Bourgogne", the latter are typical blends of different villages from the Cote du Beaune or the Cote de Nuits. It’s the hardest region to get to know, but the best to discover as they have some of the wine world's most cherished wines and define terroir in the wine world. Burgundy is difficult to learn, not only because of the name designations, but there can be multiple Grand or 1er Cru versions of the same vineyard. Many of the vineyards are so divided because of inheritance that they are sometimes just a few rows amongst a large vineyard.

My favorite white was the 2004 Meursault-Genevrieres, 1er Cru "Cuvee Philippe Le Bon" which was graceful, highly complex and very intriguing because of a note juniper I detected but could not pick out what it was. A purchasing agent from a NYC wine shop said it was a note of Juniper that came from the trees the bordered the vineyard - now THAT is terroir folks! These were great chardonnays, classic white Burgundy!

The reds were all delicious and varied in style. We were treated to a 3 year mini-vertical of Corton, Grand Cru "Cuvee Charlotte Dumay", 2002, 2003, and 2005 - 2002 being my favorite. The 1999 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru "Cuvee Madelaine Collignon" was a real treat and a testament to what a great Burgundy with almost 10 years of age can be like. My favorite wine was the powerful 2005 Clos De la Roche, Grand Cru "Cuvee George Kritter". A true example of what 2005 red Burgundy is like, the wine was powerful and complex, yet still light on its feet and elegant. This was my first Clod de la Roche wine I have had. They are quite rare and are in high demand. Thus they are expensive and sell themselves because of their reputation and are not typically tasted at a public wine tasting.

Tomorrow is the Zachy’s Fall Wine & Food Extravaganza! Talk about wine sensory overload!

Cheers!